In my previous post, I explored Asia’s obsession with skin and explained how their beauty culture differs from the West. In addition to giving preference towards skin care over makeup, the typical Asian skin care regimen includes layering multiple products onto the skin. I’ve broken down each step of the process into a ‘Night’ regimen and a ‘Day’ regimen. The general rule of thumb is to apply products in the order of thickness, building from watery serums to thick creams.
Night- The “double cleanse” is a two-step method that really, truly removes all the gunk from your face. The first step, an oil based cleanser, melts off makeup- including waterproof mascaras and other hard-to-move items. The second step, a foaming cleanser, turns into a frothy “cushion” that gently removes dirt, oil, and other impurities without pulling on the skin. I approached oil cleansers cautiously, since my skin is pretty sensitive and acne-prone, but after incorporating oil cleansers into my routine for almost 5 months, have not experienced any problems.
Day- You wake up with significantly less dirt and gunk on your face (I hope), so there’s no need for a double cleanse in the morning.
- Oil Cleansers: She Uemara‘s cleansing oil is a cult favorite, but DHC’s version is equally good, and $40 cheaper. If you’d like an American brand, check out Sephora‘s cleansing oil.
- Foaming Cleansers: I fell in love with Sheseido’s Perfect Whip foam - it’s gentle on the skin, has a luxurious lather, and is incredibly cheap (around $3 in Japan, $9 on Amazon). If you prefer an American brand, I’ve also used the Origins Checks and Balances Frothy Face Wash and like that it’s available in a small travel size.
2. Lotion, Toner, and Milk
“Lotions” and “toners” are different from what we typically think of in the West, while the term “milk” may be completely new to you. What’s the difference? It’s hard to say, since each company tends to market their products a little differently, but in general the only difference is the color of the substance (milks are creamy in color, vs. lotions and toners, which are clear). Their purpose is to re-inject some of the moisture stripped during the cleansing process, return the skin to its natural pH level, and prepare the skin to “receive” serums and additional moisture. This is in contrast to Western style ‘toners’, which typically aim to remove any trace residue after washing.
- SK-II manufactures a high-end lotion that is quite popular. Kose makes a good mid-range option, while Shiseido and Skinfood have options that won’t break the bank (the Skinfood toner smells absolutely delightful). My personal favorite is the Hadalabo Hyaluronic Acid Lotion, which almost instantly disappears into the skin. The U.S. formulation can be found at Ulta.
3. Essence and/or Serum
Essences and serums are the true workhorses of Asian skin care. These are used to correct skin imperfections- from uneven skin tone, to excess oil, to clogged pores- if you can name a problem, chances are there’s an essence or serum for it.
- If I ever win the lottery, I’ll bathe myself in this Tatcha Deep Brightening serum. Until then, SK-II and Kose are worthwhile splurges, and Skinfood and Innisfree have great affordable options. Want an American brand? Try Mario Badescu’s Vitamin C Serum.
Almost there! I’m going to introduce another vocabulary term. Ready? Emulsion. It’s just a lightweight moisturizer, and it goes on before your second moisturizer (yep, two). At night, the emulsion is followed by either a sleeping pack or a sleeping mask, both of which serve to give your skin extra hydration while “locking in” all of the other wonderful goodness you just layered on. In the AM, an SPF protects the skin from the sun’s harmful rays. You’re putting sunscreen on every time you go outside right? Riiiight?
- Emulsion: I’ve used Hadanomy and Hadalabo‘s emulsions and loved both so much that I don’t have any other recommendations.
- Sleeping Packs/Masks: Laneige’s best-selling sleeping pack is available at Target (re-named in the U.S. as a sleeping mask) and it.is.divine. My skin looks plump and refreshed in the morning. Remember when I mentioned ‘cutting edge’ ingredients like snail excretion in my former post? I bought this Missha Snail Sleeping Mask last year, and can’t decide if I love it or the Laniege more.
- SPF: There are so many to choose from that it’s really just a matter of personal preference, but Hera’s SPF (from the Amore Pacific makers) is a good place to start. My favorite SPF is by French makers La Roche Posay, because it leaves my skin matte while letting it breathe, even in the summer.
But wait, we’re not finished! While steps 1-4 comprise the core of a daily skin routine, there are a few ‘extras’ that you can throw into the mix a few times a week.
Night: Sheet masks are soaked in essence or other treatment serums that you leave on your face for up to 20 minutes while you scare your fiance and dog. Use before your sleeping pack/mask and do not rinse. Scrubs and exfoliators help to remove dead skin and other impurities.
Day: We’ve all heard of BB and CC creams, so no need for me to elaborate. Mists are a great pick-me-up and can either be spritzed after cleansing or after makeup and periodically throughout the day to prevent slippage.
- Sheet masks: This is another one of those products where there are so many to try. I like the My Beauty Diary masks, as well as Lululun’s white and pink sheet masks. If you have more to spend, I’m curious to know how Shiseido’s White Lucent masks work.
- Scrub: Skinfood’s Black Sugar Mask is so boss that I use it on Darren’s hands when they start feeling like sandpaper. It also smells heavenly, which doesn’t hurt. Their Egg White Pore Mask also shrinks pores like none other.
- Exfoliator: You need to try Cure Natural Aqua Gel. It’s the top-selling exfoliator in Japan because it’s super gentle, yet highly effective. As you rub the gel on your face, it turns your dead skin cells into little white balls that bead off your face- SO COOL.
- BB/CC Cream: Missha makes a ton of BB and CC creams catered towards every type of skin. Many of the formulations come in a travel size which are great for traveling or if you’re not sure if you will like the product. Sephora also carries a few brands that originated from Asia including Dr. Jart, Amore Pacfic, and Boscia.
- Mist: I like Skinfood’s Vita-C Mist and also swear by the Evian Spray to-go
While many turn to Europe for skin care trends and innovations, some of the biggest beauty and skin care developments in recent years have originated in Asia. During my trip to Tokyo, Seoul, and Shanghai earlier this year, I found myself scrutinizing numerous faces on the subway, wondering why everyone’s skin is so damn good. We’re talking supple, glowing skin that reveals little -if any- signs of aging, the kind of skin that can only be realized through skillful Photoshopping. Here are five observations I made about the role of skin care in Asia’s beauty culture.
1. Priorities: Skin care vs. Cosmetics- While cosmetics make up the majority of beauty purchases in the U.S., Asian women live by the philosophy that “bare is beautiful”. Victoria Tsai, founder of the Tatcha skin care line says, “The no-makeup trend has been a big one in Asia for a long time, and it’s very much about the skin — in Asia, they spend far more money on skin care and far less on makeup.”
2. Competition: Quality Products at Lower Price Points- If you follow me on Instagram, you may have seen my video snippet of the contents of a Japanese drugstore. The market for skincare in Asia is extremely competitive, so manufacturers need to create higher quality products at lower price points in order to capture even a small fraction of the consumer base. Example? Shiseido’s cult favorite Perfect Whip cleansing foam retailed for just under $3 USD in Tokyo (it’s more expensive in Korea and in the US due to import taxes).
3. Cutting Edge Ingredients: Moisturize, Whiten, and Brighten- How do you feel about putting snail on your face? No, seriously. A number of strange- but effective- ingredients have made it to the top of Japanese and Korean skin care lines, due in part to looser restrictions on bringing new skin care ingredients to the market. Most of these ingredients are used with the intention of whitening and brightening (which are synonymous terms in Asian skincare) or locking in moisture. Just a few interesting ingredients that come to mind include snail extract, bee venom, and bird’s nest.
4. Japanese and Korean Brands Dominate, Growing Chinese Market- Korean and Japan have been the longtime leaders in skin care innovation in Asia, but don’t count out China: from 2001-2011, the Chinese skin and cosmetics market grew by 17%, and the premium skin/cosmetics market grew by an even faster rate of 22.3%. In 2012, China became the world’s third largest cosmetics market following the United States and Japan.
5. Layer, Layer, Layer- Whereas Western skin care regimens typically include 2-3 steps (cleanser, toner, lotion- and that’s on a good day for me), Asian skincare regimens can include upwards of 10-15 steps. The ‘layering’ technique involves patting or massaging the products in a specific order, usually from the lightest to heaviest consistency. While the layering technique originated in Asia, the French are also proponents of this method, otherwise known as ‘millefeuille’ –translated as ‘a thousand layers’, not to be confused with the pastry.
All of this background is intended to justify why, after picking my way across drugstores and skin care counters, I returned from Asia with an arsenal of products and a new found determination to take better care of my skin. While I haven’t made it to 10 -much less 15- products on the regular, incorporating and layering some of these new products has improved my skin. Interested? Look for more information and product recommendations in my next post.
FYI- This post was written back in December, but for various reasons never made it onto the blog until now. W is back from her Asia travels, and I’ve been putzing around home, work, and taking care of our little Nugget. Since this was supposed to go up a few months ago and it is almost spring (but still cold as heck from this never ending winter), the drink of Winter 2013 is now the drink of Spring 2014!
Happy Spring! As you dream about the warm weather, how about a nice refreshing drink recipe to help you through this miserably long polar vortex winter? This past winter was a special time for me, finally finishing grad school after a long 2.5 years of work, school, and nothing else. So, in honor of the impending spring season, and my classmate Kate – who also graduated – I present to you DarwinDiscovered’s Drink of the Season, Spring 2014: The Stod-tini! It’s simple, it’s classy, and it’s delicious – so you can spend more quality time with those you care about, and less time worrying about what to drink.
What you’ll need:
- St. Germain Elderflower Liquor
- a Pear-flavored vodka of your choice (or infuse your own, like we did)
- club soda
In our never-ending quest to stock our newly assembled bar (and cart), W and I found ourselves at our local county liquor store one evening perusing the selection of fancily-flavored liquors. We thought, “Pay $25 for a bottle of Absolut Pear Vodka? We have to be able to do it ourselves for cheaper!” And thus, our vodka infusing was borne. (editor’s note: unfortunately, it cost us just about the same amount to infuse the vodka when you consider all the materials, but I (would like to) think our choice of fresh ingredients and vodka make it a better choice)
• Two 1-L bottles of Tito’s – Texas-based sextuple-distilled premium vodka, for our infusing target. Might as well have something smooth, silky, and easy to drink if you are going to make it for yourself. We also like the classic look of the Tito’s bottles, and they were perfect for pouring in our infused vodka back for storage.
• 10-12 Seckel Pears – These are the best for infusing, given their relatively firm flesh, and their small-ish size. I thought that the firmness might enable them to stay a bit more consistent while infusing, rather than turning into a mush. Something like a Bartlett pear may be softer and riper to use, and might turn out sweeter – but we discovered the Seckel was plenty sweet enough.
• 6-8 Gala or Fuji Apples – again, I don’t think it makes too big a deal what variety of apple you use, but I’d stay away from some of the darker flesh types, as the infusing process will add a bit of golden brown color to your vodka already.
• Two 1L Infusing Canisters – these can really be any air-tight container that has a large enough opening to fit your fruit in. We found the glass barrel-looking ones for about ~$7 each at HomeGoods. Air-tight is the only requirement.
• Cheese cloth – for straining the fruit out after your infusing period
Konichiwa, friends! If you follow me on Instagram, you’ll notice that I’m currently in the Land of the Rising Sun. My better half is at home with Nugget, but my little brother and I have still been able to get into some mischief making while in Tokyo. We’re here for another day and then off to Seoul for the rest of the week. Here are a few shots from our adventures:
- Breakfast at the Tsukiji Fish Market. Phenomenally delicious and fresh.
- Our AirBnB host provided us with a bag of ‘instant’ coffee, which includes a built in individual filter that pops over your mug. Pour hot water over and…wonder why America’s instant coffee tastes so horrendous.
- Imperial Palace East Gardens
- Ginza, known for its luxury shopping, looks like someone laid out the designer Rolodex building by building. But seriously, what can you fill 12 floors of Cartier with?
- Meiji Jingu Shrine- went here in the afternoon and was fortunate enough to spot a Japanese wedding!
- Tokyo Skytree, the tallest tower in the world.
- My brother isn’t particularly tall at 5’9″, but appears to dwarf some of the furniture here. He also wears a size ‘Large’ in clothing…
- Which also leading to a few chuckles when I spotted this tag in a Zara.
- Maryland is keeping it real in Tokyo. Spotted this number in Harajuku, a mecca for young fashionistas.
- My favorite part of Tokyo is the numerous drugstores that flank the streets. Japanese women take their skincare very seriously, so these stores are oftentimes floors upon floors of various skin and makeup goodies.
- Louise Bourgeois’ ‘Maman’ sculpture in Roppongi Hills. No room for arachnophobia here.
- The Mori Art Museum is currently hosting the largest ever Warhol exhibition to be presented in Japan.
- There is a staggering amount of ramen EVERYWHERE (I know, I know…duh.) Gobbled this tsukemen at Tetsu in Roppongi Hills.
- Tokyo City View observation deck at Mori Tower.
- The view from Tokyo City View.
Christmas is quick upon us, and if you’re like me, your gift shopping progress is…zilch. Since I’ve been brainstorming what to gift to others, I figured I’d share my findings with you. If you’ve read our Build a Home Mini Bar guide, you’ll know that we like our imbibements at Casa de Darwin. Should you find yourself wondering what to gift your friend who enjoys partaking in beverage sipping of the alcoholic variety, look no further: 13 days till Christmas, 13 gift ideas that will make you want to drink.